Method of Treating Hair, Virgil A. Gant (1953)
Patented on June 23, 1953 (U.S. Patent No. 2,643,375), this invention by Virgil A. Gant introduced a revolutionary chemical approach to hair styling. At the time, permanent hair straightening and waving relied on harsh “cold-wave” reduction reactions (using thioglycolic acid) that ruptured the sulfur bonds in hair keratin, often leading to hair damage, skin irritation, and even depilation (hair loss) if the pH wasn’t perfectly controlled.
Gant’s method moved away from damaging the hair’s internal structure. Instead, he proposed using organo-silicon polymers (polysiloxanes)—modernly known as silicones—to coat the hair and “lock” it into a desired shape through heat or catalytic setting.
The “Why”
- Safety and Health: Unlike thioglycolates or caustic alkalis, silicones are non-toxic, non-irritating to the scalp, and do not chemically alter the keratin molecule.
- Weather Resistance: Because silicones are naturally water-repellent, hair treated with this method stays straight or curly even in high humidity or rain.
- Enhanced Appearance: The silicone fluid acts as a lubricant and softener, significantly improving the hair’s “sheen” and silkiness without the need for heavy pressing oils.
- Permanence without Discoloration: Earlier resin treatments (like phenol-formaldehyde) often turned the hair yellow; Gant’s silicone treatment remained perfectly colorless and stable.
Key Systems Section
1. The Silicone Composition
Gant’s formula was a precise blend of two types of organo-silicon compounds:
- The Resin (1–3%): A thermosetting polymer in an “intermediate stage.” When heated, it advances to a “set” stage, acting like a microscopic, flexible scaffold that holds the hair strand in place.
- The Fluid/Lubricant (0.05–3%): A low-viscosity silicone (like dimethyl polysiloxane) that plasticizes the resin. This prevents the hair from becoming brittle or “matted” and provides a soft, natural feel.
2. The Thermal Setting Process (The “Hot Comb” Method)
The most common application of Gant’s invention involved heat to trigger the polymerization:
- Application: The composition is sprayed or swabbed onto clean, dry hair.
- The Press: A metallic comb heated to 350–450°F is passed through the hair.
- The Reaction: The heat drives off the solvent and rapidly cures the resin in about 2 to 5 minutes. The “foaming” or “hissing” during combing indicates the solvent is evaporating, leaving the set resin behind.
3. The Molecular Logic (The Siloxane Bond)
Gant utilized the silicon-oxygen-silicon (Si-O-Si) backbone. By varying the “R” groups (methyl, ethyl, phenyl, etc.) attached to the silicon atoms, he could control how stiff or soft the resulting “set” would be.
4. Wetting Agents and Solvents
To ensure the silicone didn’t just bead up on the hair’s natural oils, Gant added:
- Wetting Agents: Compounds like polyoxyethylene derivatives to ensure the film coated the hair fiber uniformly from root to tip.
- Safety Solvents: Glycol ethers and esters that had high flash points (to prevent fires from the hot comb) and low toxicity.
Component & Operation Table
| Ingredient / Tool | Function | Result |
| Polysiloxane Resin | The “Setter” | Provides the permanent hold for the new hair shape. |
| Silicone Fluid | The “Softener” | Prevents stiffness; gives hair a silky, lustrous sheen. |
| Hot Comb (400°F) | The “Catalyst” | Triggers the chemical bond-building (polymerization) in situ. |
| Wetting Agent | The “Spreader” | Ensures a microscopic, even coating over every hair fiber. |
| Water Repellency | The “Protector” | Makes the hairstyle “weather-proof” against moisture. |
Significance
Virgil A. Gant’s patent represented a major leap in cosmetic chemistry:
- Founder of Modern Hair Silicone: This is one of the earliest high-profile uses of silicones in hair care—a category that now dominates the global beauty industry.
- Structural Integrity: It proved that you could achieve “permanent” styling by additive means (adding a protective film) rather than subtractive means (breaking chemical bonds inside the hair).
- Inclusivity in Design: Gant specifically addressed the needs of “kinky hair,” providing a safer, faster alternative to the dangerous “hair straightening” chemicals of the early 20th century.
Final Insight: Gant effectively invented a “breathable, invisible raincoat” for each individual hair strand that also acted as a mold to keep the hair straight or curly. By utilizing the unique heat-stability of silicones, he turned the standard “pressing” session into a high-tech chemical curing process.
