Hair Treating Composition and Method (1953/1954)
Patented in its final form on June 23, 1953 (U.S. Patent No. 2,643,375), with subsequent refinements in 1954, this invention by Virgil A. Gant represents a major scientific shift in hair care. Gant, a researcher at Northwestern Research Corp, sought a safer, more effective way to permanently straighten or curl hair without the harsh, damaging chemicals common in mid-century beauty parlors.
His breakthrough was the introduction of organo-silicon polymers (silicones) to the hair-treating process—a precursor to the high-end silicone hair products used today.
The Problem: Chemical Rupture vs. Heat Damage
In the 1950s, “cold-wave” or straightening treatments relied on thioglycolic acid.
- How it worked: These chemicals would rupture the disulphide linkages in the hair’s keratin (the protein structure).
- The Danger: This process made the hair “plastic” and soft, but if the pH was slightly off or left on too long, it acted as a depilatory (hair remover).
- The Traditional Alternative: Using “pressing oils” and hot combs, which provided only temporary results that vanished the moment the hair got damp.
The Innovation: Silicone “Encasing”
Gant’s method didn’t try to break the hair’s chemical bonds. Instead, it used a specialized coating that “set” the hair in a new position using heat and advanced chemistry.
1. The Organo-Silicon Polymer (Polysiloxane)
Gant applied a silicone resin to the hair fibers. Silicones are unique because they are water-repellent and stable at high temperatures.
- When the composition is heated (using a hot comb or curler), the silicone advances to its “final polymeric stage.”
- It essentially forms an invisible, microscopic “sleeve” or “encasement” around each hair shaft, holding it straight (or curled) and protecting it from moisture in the air (humidity).
2. The Integrated Lubricant
To prevent the silicone from making the hair feel “stiff” or “brittle,” Gant combined it with an organic lubricant (such as palm oil, coconut oil, or specialized Werner complex compounds).
- This ensured the hair maintained a natural sheen and softness while the silicone provided the “hold.”
Technical Application & Method
Gant’s patent outlines a specific procedure for a “permanent set”:
- Preparation: The hair is thoroughly shampooed and dried to remove natural oils.
- Application: The composition (usually 1–3% silicone resin) is sprayed or swabbed onto the hair.
- The Set: A metallic comb heated to 300–400°F is passed through the hair.
- The heat drives off the solvent and “cures” the silicone resin in seconds.
- This process is significantly faster than traditional chemical relaxers which could take hours.
Key Benefits of the Gant Method
| Feature | Gant’s Silicone Method | Traditional Chemical Method |
| Safety | Non-toxic; no skin irritation or hair loss. | High risk of burns and depilation (hair loss). |
| Durability | High water-repellency; resists humidity. | Reverts to kinks/frizz as soon as it gets wet. |
| Appearance | Natural color and sheen. | Often caused “yellowing” or unnatural shine. |
| Hair Health | Protects the hair shaft. | Ruptures protein bonds, weakening the hair. |
Chemical Composition (Example 3 from Patent)
The patent provided precise recipes for these treatments:
- Silicone Resin: Dimethyl phenyl and methyl polysiloxane (3%).
- Lubricant: Dicoco diethyl ammonium chloride (1%).
- Solvents: Kerosene, xylol, and cellosolve (to ensure uniform distribution before evaporation).
Historical Significance
Virgil Gant’s work was foundational for the modern “Keratin treatment” and “Silicone shine” industries. By moving away from the “reduction/oxidation” cycle of harsh acids and toward protective polymer encasement, he allowed for hair styling that was both permanent and healthy. This was particularly revolutionary for the African American beauty industry, providing a safer alternative to the caustic “lye” relaxers of the era.
