Hair Treating Composition and Method (1957)
U.S. Patent No. 2,787,274, granted on April 2, 1957, to Virgil A. Gant and Herman I. Hersh, describes an innovative aqueous silicon-based formula designed for hair conditioning, straightening, and curling. Virgil Gant, an expert in organo-silicon chemistry, sought to modernize hair treatments by replacing harsh, greasy, and flammable solvent-based products with a safer, water-soluble alternative.
This specific invention solved a significant barrier in the beauty industry: the reliance on expensive, odorous, and hazardous organic solvents to deliver silicone resins to the hair. By developing a water-stable system, Gant and Hersh made advanced hair conditioning safer for both the stylist and the consumer.
The Innovation: The “Ammonium Polysiloxanolate” System
Prior to this patent, silicone resins (polysiloxanes) were difficult to use because they wouldn’t dissolve in water. Gant’s breakthrough was the creation of polysiloxanolates—silicone polymers reacted with ammonia or alkali metals to become temporary salts that are completely water-soluble.
Why Ammonium Salts?
- Self-Insolubilization: As the hair dries, the ammonia simply volatilizes (evaporates) into the air. This causes the silicone to revert to its water-insoluble resin state, locking the hair in its new shape.
- Lower pH: Unlike harsh metallic salts, ammonium allows the composition to stay within a hair-safe pH range of 5.0 to 10.0 (ideally 6 to 8.5).
- Odor and Safety: By using water as the primary diluent, the inventors eliminated the fire hazards and heavy chemical smells associated with solvent-based straighteners.
The Core Design: The “Dual-Polymer” Balance
The brilliance of the Gant-Hersh formula lies in its use of two different types of silicone polymers to achieve a natural look and feel:
- Low Molecular Weight (Liquid): Acts as a lubricant to provide softness and “sheen.”
- High Molecular Weight (Solid/Resin): Acts as the “setter” that holds the hair in its straight or curled position.
How the Treatment Functions
The process follows a specific sequence to transform the hair’s structure without causing damage or stiffness:
| Step | Action | Purpose |
| 1. Preparation | The hair is shampooed and dried. | Removes natural oils to ensure the silicone can wet the hair fibers uniformly. |
| 2. Application | The aqueous polysiloxanolate solution is sprayed or padded onto the hair. | Distributes the “liquid” and “solid” polymers across the hair shafts. |
| 3. Thermal Setting | A metallic comb, heated between 250°F and 400°F, is passed through the hair. | Drives off the water and ammonia, “setting” the resin into a permanent, water-insoluble film. |
| 4. Finishing | The hair is combed or curled into the final desired style. | The set silicone provides “life and vigor” without a greasy or oily feel. |
Technical Components
- Ammonium Polysiloxanolate (1% to 5%): The active ingredient that transitions from a water-soluble salt to a permanent waterproof resin.
- Wetting Agent (0.05% to 2.0%): Compounds like Triton X-100 ensure the formula bypasses any residual hair oils to coat the fiber evenly.
- Silicone Fluid: A lubricant added to prevent the hair from feeling stiff or “matted” after the resin sets.
- pH Buffers: Ammonia is used to keep the solution stable in the bottle at a pH of approximately 7.5.
Historical and Scientific Impact
Virgil Gant and Herman Hersh’s work was a major step forward in cosmetic chemistry, particularly for the hair-straightening market which, at the time, relied heavily on dangerous lye-based relaxers or heavy petrolatum “greases.”
- Non-Greasy Results: It was the first treatment to provide straightening without the “oily and greasy” look, instead offering a “soft and silky feel.”
- Versatility: The patent demonstrated that the same chemical system could be used to straighten kinky hair or provide a permanent wave to straight hair.
- Durability: Because the final set resin is water-insoluble, the results could withstand humidity and washing much better than traditional starch or sugar-based setters.
About the Inventors: Virgil A. Gant and Herman I. Hersh
Virgil A. Gant was a pioneer in the application of silicones to organic fibers. His series of patents in the early 1950s laid the groundwork for the modern use of dimethicone and other silicones in the global hair care industry. Working alongside Herman Hersh in the Chicago area, Gant’s research bridged the gap between industrial polymer science and consumer beauty products.
Summary of Claims
The patent explicitly claims:
- A composition containing 0.1% to 3.0% liquid polymer and 0.5% to 5.0% solid polymer polysiloxanolates.
- The method of setting hair by wetting it with this aqueous solution and eliminating the water while the hair is positioned.
- The use of heat above 250°F to accelerate the volatilization of ammonia and the setting of the water-insoluble film.
